Streaky Bay

We have a great location in the Streaky Bay Foreshore Tourist Park, our site is waterfront, the rear of the caravan is just about on the beach. We have been able to set up our chairs right at the back of the van where we sit back and look out across the bay, our first day here the weather was just perfect. The last couple of days have been quiet windy again, but at least we have not been too cold still wearing shorts and tee shirts. It has been nice to be able stop in one place for three days and catch up with washing and replenish our food stocks, as when coming into SA (Ceduna) we could not bring in any fruit or vegetables. The township is within easy walking distance from the park so yesterday we ambled along the beach and into town, not a lot open on a Sunday but we did manage to get a coffee with scones and cream, this made the walk very worthwhile.
Today we did the Cape Bauer Loop scenic drive which took us out to the Whistling Rocks and Blow Holes, after walking about 10 mins down a boardwalk we were able to see and hear the sea as it crashed against the cliffs and the air that was pushed up the cracks in the cliffs had a whistling effect, but unfortunately did not see the blow holes working. This afternoon we have been subject to the occasional rain squalls and only able to fit a walk around the park in between showers.

Baz trying his hand at fishing, I think it was
Sardines on toast that night

Camp spot Streaky Bay

Vista from caravan

Hallys Beach

Hallys Beach

Whistling Rocks and Blow Holes

Nullarbor

We were undecided until Wednesday morning as to whether we would travel down to Esperance or start the journey across the Nullarbor, checking the weather report we came to the conclusion that we would give the south-west a miss until another time. Weather conditions were very poor along the coast and it would not have been pleasant travelling in those conditions. 

Leaving Kalgoorlie we traveled down to Norseman which again is another small heritage mining town and the beginning of the Nullarbor which ends at Ceduna a total length of 1,181klms. Now that we have taken the turn off to travel east it certainly means our travels will soon be coming to an end, but first we have to tackle the Nullarbor. Our first stop was only about 90klm along the Eyre Hwy as we had been advised by many that a stop at the Fraser Range Station was a must. The station was originally a sheep station but now it caters to the tourist industry with budget accommodation, camping and also offering tours of the property. Booking in for the night we noticed that they had roast pork on the menu in the camp kitchen, so my best laid plans were out the window and it was a very nice roast with vegies, crackling plus desert for $25 each.
 

Next day we were up bright and early and on the road by 7.40am. Had not planned an early start but we were glad that we did, as we ended up only 100klm from the WA/SA borders after travelling 550klms. I had taken the first stint at the driving which meant that I had to drive the longest straight in Australia 146.6 klms without a bend, it was a no brainer, just had to sit there with cruise control on and hold onto the steering wheel.  We were surprised at the vegetation we saw along the Nullarbor, had been expecting a more sparsely and arid landscape. Passing over the Madura Pass there was a sweeping view of the plains below. We stopped at a free camp that was just off the road and in amongst trees for the night, as we just needed somewhere to sleep before continuing the next day.

Yesterday (Friday) we crossed the border into SA which meant we needed to adjust our watches, lost an hour and half as we had to put them forward. During the night we had light drizzle, so the day started off being very overcast and misty, which was a shame as this part of the Nullarbor is the most scenic. The Nullarbor Plain abruptly ended as the spectacular Bunda Cliffs came into sight, there were several viewing areas along the cliffs for photo opportunities and also overnight camping. The highlight of the Nullarbor was at the spectacular whale watching site at the Head of the Bight, a visitor’s centre and boardwalks are located 12klms off the Eyre Hwy, and it was very exciting to be able to see these large whales as they swim within the bay. They were that close to shore that we could hear the slapping of their tails and the moaning as they were exhaling air, we could also see the many calves alongside their mothers. The Southern Right whales come to the sheltered water of the adjacent bay en masse to give birth to calves and are there between June and October before returning south to cooler waters.  Having spent so much time watching the whales and with the adjustment of the time we did not cover as many klms as we had hoped so it was back on the road again with many klms of salt bushes and crossing the “Treeless Plain” we eventually stopped at another rest area for the night which was only 150klm west of Ceduna. 

Today we completed the remaining leg of the Nullarbor to Ceduna this time the scenery opening up to furtile farming land. After stopping for a short break we continued on to the Eyre Peninsula and settled into Streaky Bay Caravan Park for a couple of days rest.

Free campsite on the Nullarbor

Our first misty sight of the coast

Bunda Cliffs

Bunda Cliffs

Parking area Bunda Cliffs

Salt bush plain

Weather improving heading east

Head of the Bight - the bay where
 the whales give birth to their calves

Head of the Bight

Kalgoorlie-Boulder

After a night spent out on the road we arrived at Kalgoorlie mid morning and booked into the Discovery Park for a couple of nights.  We had an early lunch then set off to see some of the sights around this historic gold mining town.

The first thing on our list of things to see was the Super Pit, after a short drive up to the lookout we were able to view down into the open cut mine for about 500 metres. It was certainly an impressive site with the large mining trucks looking like toys in the distance. 

Our next stop was Metropole Hotel in Boulder, which is unique in having a disused mine shaft with its entrance into the main bar area. The story goes that the miners used to come up into the bar with the gold that they had found and trade it for beer and food, a very convenient location after a hard day’s work. They were lifelong patrons to the Hotel, and upon their death they requested that their ashes be buried in the Hotel mine shaft. Their resting place can be seen through glass flooring in the bar, a cocktail shaker and a tin with their ashes, are sitting on a ledge down the shaft for all to see.

Next it was up to Mt Charlotte Lookout, which is where the town’s reservoir is located, this is a large storage area that is filled from the pipeline that spans 650klms from Perth.  The lookout gives you views to the northern end of the Super Pit and the mullock heaps, also a view out across the township.

Finally it was back to the van to sit under the awning to enjoy the last of the lovely hot day.

We decided the next day that we would walk the main street first up before the day got too hot, after window shopping and viewing the many Heritage buildings we stopped for a drink and cake before heading off to the the Kalgoolie-Boulder Mining Museum.  This museum had some impressive displays one being the vault in the basement of gold nuggets and gold jewelry from early mining days. Hopping in the lift I hit P for Platform thinking it was a suspended floor within the building only to find ourselves within a glass walled lift on the outside of the building that stopped at the platform of a head frame (steel structure over shafts) . I really do not have a head for heights any more, I had tingling from my toes to my knee caps and was very happy when the lift returned to take me back down.

The many pubs in town are known for the scantily dressed young ladies that work behind the bars, many have signs out the front advising which young  ladies will be working that day. Kalgoorlie is also known for the famous Hay Street, which is where all the brothels were housed, unfortunately there is only a couple remaining in the street, with just the one operational. The madam from the Questa Casta runs a daily tour, she gives a very informative talk on how the brothels operated in the early years. We were then shown the starting stalls which are located behind the pink doors at the front of the building, this is where the girls would stand to entice a customer into her parlour, next we were shown the working rooms and given a rundown of what would go on behind the closed doors. Poor Baz, was bitterly disappointed, he thought there may have been some sampling!  I told him I can always buy a whip and give him a good crack on the backside.

Super Pit

Metropole Hotel

Main St Kalgoorlie (Hannan St)

Entrance to the Museum and platform height

Baz at the Brothel in Hay St (wishful thinking)

New Norcia

After another disturbed nights sleep from wind and rain, Baz and I came to the decision that it would be best to head inland away from the coast as the forecast for the next week wasn't looking very promising. We had planned on going to Fremantle then onto Albany and around the coast to Esperence, we certainly were not enjoying the wintery weather that we were experiencing so a change of plans took us inland to New Norcia and the we will head to Kalgoolie.
Our visit to the Historic town of New Norcia was a spiritual experience as the Benedictine Monks settled and built the town in 1847. New Norcia is Australia's only monastic town and has a unique heritage. Founded by Spanish Benedictine Monks, the town has had many purposes, a mission, a monastery, a provider of education and now as a place of spiritual retreat. We enjoyed a two hour walking tour of the town where we viewed the chapels in the girls and boys colleges, these are visually stunning with painted murals and the fine works of the wood carvings. This beautiful work was also displayed in the Abbey Church along with a Moser organ that was crafted in Germany and imported by the Monks. If anyone was coming to the town to stay in the caravan park they would be bitterly disappointed as it is located at the Roadhouse with no level sites, gravel and only metres from the side of the Great Northern Hwy. We preferred the camping area that was located across the road and much further from the  busy hwy. and only had to pay $7 for the night, and enjoyed a nice peaceful sleep.
We travelled about 400 klms the next day in fine sunny weather stopping for lunch at the Ettamogh Pub at Cunderdin , seeing the pub we thought we were suddenly transposed to QLD. Baz enjoyed a nice Fathers Day Lunch before continuing further along the Great Southern Hwy towards Kalgoolie stopping for the night at the Boorabin Rest Area.

Boy's College New Norcia

Chapel girls college

Chapel boy's college

Abbey Church

Moser Organ Abbey Church

Monastery New Norcia

Pub at Cunderdin

Geraldton - Jurien Bay

After leaving Kalbarri we travelled through semi arid countryside once again, until lush green rolling hills appeared with paddocks of wheat and grazing cattle emerged as we approached the town of Northampton. We arrived in the big town of Geraldton to be greeted with gusty winds and intermittent downpours of rain. Time to pack the beach gear away. When we first arrived we initially had our awning out, but after talking with other caravaner's in the park we decided to pack it away, as at least four other caravans had lost their awnings and incurred damage in the gusty conditions the day before, better to be safe than sorry.

On our first afternoon in Geraldton we thought we would visit the HMAS Sydney Memorial, upon pulling into the car park a tour volunteer approached us to became part of a group for a photo shoot for the next Coral Coast magazine. So we were lucky enough to hear the extremely moving story of how the Ship was sunk and the 645 crew were lost as the tours are usually held each morning. It is a beautifully designed memorial, a silver dome of 645 seagulls to represent each of the lost Sydney sailors, the wall of remembrance shows photo's of the ship and the names of all the crew.
The next day we made our way to the Geraldton Museum where we again enjoyed another good presentation this one on the Batavia Shipwreck and the hardship faced by the survivors. They also covered the discovery and the raising of the wreck, with many artifacts on display. We have now had new tyres fitted to the Pajero, so we are feeling much safer on the wet roads we are experiencing. Later that afternoon we went for a drive out to Ellendale Pool, a picturesque bbq and camping spot, would be a lovely place on a nice warm sunny day.

Yesterday we left Geraldton to travel the relatively short distance of 200klms to Jurien Bay. Jurien Bay is a lovely little seaside town with the caravan park right beside the beach which also exposes us to the gusty conditions of WA. WA stands for, Windy Always! We thought we would use this stop as a base for a visit to the Pinnacles in the Nambung National Park, these are amazing natural limestone structures that were left exposed after coastal winds removed the surrounding sand. It was quiet a unique experience to view these structures in a desert like environment.

The rain squalls have gone but we are now enduring 43klm/h winds gusting up to 57klm/h hoping it eases up soon.

HMAS Sydney Memorial

Wall of Remembrance 

Propeller depicting a dead ship 

Sub used for researching crayfish

Wintery view of Geraldton 

Ellendale Pool

Jetty Jurien Bay

Storm approaching Jurien Bay

Pinnacles

Kalbarri

Can't believe that we will be waiting to board the Spirit in 5 weeks, the last 15 weeks have flown. We have travelled so far, seen and done so much that we sometime have to go back to our photo's and blog, just to refresh our poor old memories of where we have been, what a great time we have had.

Leaving Shark Bay we stopped to have a look at Shell Beach which is approx 50 kilometres from Denham the beach is made up entirely of billions of tiny cockle shells which are about 8 metres deep and stretching for over 120 kilometres. The shells were once used to build walls of buildings in the area some of these buildings we saw when we were in Denham.

We have spent this last week here at Kalbarri and what a lovely picturesque spot it is situated on the mouth of the Murchison River, we are leaving tomorrow and we would loved to have stayed longer. We have also been lucky to have had the company of Carlene & Rex also Maree and Brian but the happy hours and the walks via the Bakery and the occasional morning coffee along with long lunches at the other eateries around the town, have not been so good for our waist lines. Maree and Brian have since left us and are now down in Perth. We will leave Carlene and Rex tomorrow who will be staying on here at Kalbarri for a few more days.

On our walks along the foreshore we usually end up sitting at the lookout at Chinamans Rock where we are able to watch the whales as they come in close to the shoreline. A couple of days ago we hired a double kayak and paddled to the mouth of the Murchison River, it was very pleasant in the bay as it is protected by Oyster Reef, a very hazardous reef that as the boats leave the river mouth they head straight out towards the reef and then turn parallel to the beach for about 40 metres before heading out into the Indian Ocean, quiet a maneuver.

Yesterday we went out to the Kalbarri National Park where we were able to view the Murchison Gorge unfortunately the road to the Z Bend & Natures's Window was closed due to upgrading of the road, had heard it was in very poor condition so they are now sealing it and only allowing tour buses through until it is completed.  In the afternoon we went south of Kalbarri to view the coastal cliffs and beaches very stunning scenery along the cliffs, with plenty of access roads and paths giving you great vantage points.

Today we awoke to an overcast sky and a drop in the temperature, it was not long after that we heard the rumble of thunder and now we are experiencing our first rain since Coober Pedy back in May. It is a good thing that we have the Pajero booked in for new rear tyres at Geraldton as we expect the weather to deteriorate as we go further south. We did not expect to have to replace the tyres as we had new tyres fitted before we left home, but they are now illegal  have only done 15 thousand kilometers, hot roads and towing the van have taken a toll.

Shell Beach Shark Bay

Carlene,Rex, Maree and Brian enjoying a long lunch!

Mouth of the Murchison River

Kalbarri from the lookout

Kalbarri

Murchison Gorge

Rugged coastline (Pot Alley)