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Saturday, September 7, 2013

Nullarbor

We were undecided until Wednesday morning as to whether we would travel down to Esperance or start the journey across the Nullarbor, checking the weather report we came to the conclusion that we would give the south-west a miss until another time. Weather conditions were very poor along the coast and it would not have been pleasant travelling in those conditions. 

Leaving Kalgoorlie we traveled down to Norseman which again is another small heritage mining town and the beginning of the Nullarbor which ends at Ceduna a total length of 1,181klms. Now that we have taken the turn off to travel east it certainly means our travels will soon be coming to an end, but first we have to tackle the Nullarbor. Our first stop was only about 90klm along the Eyre Hwy as we had been advised by many that a stop at the Fraser Range Station was a must. The station was originally a sheep station but now it caters to the tourist industry with budget accommodation, camping and also offering tours of the property. Booking in for the night we noticed that they had roast pork on the menu in the camp kitchen, so my best laid plans were out the window and it was a very nice roast with vegies, crackling plus desert for $25 each.
 
Next day we were up bright and early and on the road by 7.40am. Had not planned an early start but we were glad that we did, as we ended up only 100klm from the WA/SA borders after travelling 550klms. I had taken the first stint at the driving which meant that I had to drive the longest straight in Australia 146.6 klms without a bend, it was a no brainer, just had to sit there with cruise control on and hold onto the steering wheel.  We were surprised at the vegetation we saw along the Nullarbor, had been expecting a more sparsely and arid landscape. Passing over the Madura Pass there was a sweeping view of the plains below. We stopped at a free camp that was just off the road and in amongst trees for the night, as we just needed somewhere to sleep before continuing the next day.

Yesterday (Friday) we crossed the border into SA which meant we needed to adjust our watches, lost an hour and half as we had to put them forward. During the night we had light drizzle, so the day started off being very overcast and misty, which was a shame as this part of the Nullarbor is the most scenic. The Nullarbor Plain abruptly ended as the spectacular Bunda Cliffs came into sight, there were several viewing areas along the cliffs for photo opportunities and also overnight camping. The highlight of the Nullarbor was at the spectacular whale watching site at the Head of the Bight, a visitor’s centre and boardwalks are located 12klms off the Eyre Hwy, and it was very exciting to be able to see these large whales as they swim within the bay. They were that close to shore that we could hear the slapping of their tails and the moaning as they were exhaling air, we could also see the many calves alongside their mothers. The Southern Right whales come to the sheltered water of the adjacent bay en masse to give birth to calves and are there between June and October before returning south to cooler waters.  Having spent so much time watching the whales and with the adjustment of the time we did not cover as many klms as we had hoped so it was back on the road again with many klms of salt bushes and crossing the “Treeless Plain” we eventually stopped at another rest area for the night which was only 150klm west of Ceduna. 

Today we completed the remaining leg of the Nullarbor to Ceduna this time the scenery opening up to furtile farming land. After stopping for a short break we continued on to the Eyre Peninsula and settled into Streaky Bay Caravan Park for a couple of days rest.

Free campsite on the Nullarbor


Our first misty sight of the coast

Bunda Cliffs

Bunda Cliffs

Parking area Bunda Cliffs

Salt bush plain

Weather improving heading east

Head of the Bight - the bay where
 the whales give birth to their calves

Head of the Bight



Kalgoorlie-Boulder

After a night spent out on the road we arrived at Kalgoorlie mid morning and booked into the Discovery Park for a couple of nights.  We had an early lunch then set off to see some of the sights around this historic gold mining town.

The first thing on our list of things to see was the Super Pit, after a short drive up to the lookout we were able to view down into the open cut mine for about 500 metres. It was certainly an impressive site with the large mining trucks looking like toys in the distance. 

Our next stop was Metropole Hotel in Boulder, which is unique in having a disused mine shaft with its entrance into the main bar area. The story goes that the miners used to come up into the bar with the gold that they had found and trade it for beer and food, a very convenient location after a hard day’s work. They were lifelong patrons to the Hotel, and upon their death they requested that their ashes be buried in the Hotel mine shaft. Their resting place can be seen through glass flooring in the bar, a cocktail shaker and a tin with their ashes, are sitting on a ledge down the shaft for all to see.

Next it was up to Mt Charlotte Lookout, which is where the town’s reservoir is located, this is a large storage area that is filled from the pipeline that spans 650klms from Perth.  The lookout gives you views to the northern end of the Super Pit and the mullock heaps, also a view out across the township.

Finally it was back to the van to sit under the awning to enjoy the last of the lovely hot day.

We decided the next day that we would walk the main street first up before the day got too hot, after window shopping and viewing the many Heritage buildings we stopped for a drink and cake before heading off to the the Kalgoolie-Boulder Mining Museum.  This museum had some impressive displays one being the vault in the basement of gold nuggets and gold jewelry from early mining days. Hopping in the lift I hit P for Platform thinking it was a suspended floor within the building only to find ourselves within a glass walled lift on the outside of the building that stopped at the platform of a head frame (steel structure over shafts) . I really do not have a head for heights any more, I had tingling from my toes to my knee caps and was very happy when the lift returned to take me back down.

The many pubs in town are known for the scantily dressed young ladies that work behind the bars, many have signs out the front advising which young  ladies will be working that day. Kalgoorlie is also known for the famous Hay Street, which is where all the brothels were housed, unfortunately there is only a couple remaining in the street, with just the one operational. The madam from the Questa Casta runs a daily tour, she gives a very informative talk on how the brothels operated in the early years. We were then shown the starting stalls which are located behind the pink doors at the front of the building, this is where the girls would stand to entice a customer into her parlour, next we were shown the working rooms and given a rundown of what would go on behind the closed doors. Poor Baz, was bitterly disappointed, he thought there may have been some sampling!  I told him I can always buy a whip and give him a good crack on the backside.
Super Pit



Metropole Hotel

Main St Kalgoorlie (Hannan St)

Entrance to the Museum and platform height

Baz at the Brothel in Hay St (wishful thinking)

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

New Norcia

After another disturbed nights sleep from wind and rain, Baz and I came to the decision that it would be best to head inland away from the coast as the forecast for the next week wasn't looking very promising. We had planned on going to Fremantle then onto Albany and around the coast to Esperence, we certainly were not enjoying the wintery weather that we were experiencing so a change of plans took us inland to New Norcia and the we will head to Kalgoolie.
Our visit to the Historic town of New Norcia was a spiritual experience as the Benedictine Monks settled and built the town in 1847. New Norcia is Australia's only monastic town and has a unique heritage. Founded by Spanish Benedictine Monks, the town has had many purposes, a mission, a monastery, a provider of education and now as a place of spiritual retreat. We enjoyed a two hour walking tour of the town where we viewed the chapels in the girls and boys colleges, these are visually stunning with painted murals and the fine works of the wood carvings. This beautiful work was also displayed in the Abbey Church along with a Moser organ that was crafted in Germany and imported by the Monks. If anyone was coming to the town to stay in the caravan park they would be bitterly disappointed as it is located at the Roadhouse with no level sites, gravel and only metres from the side of the Great Northern Hwy. We preferred the camping area that was located across the road and much further from the  busy hwy. and only had to pay $7 for the night, and enjoyed a nice peaceful sleep.
We travelled about 400 klms the next day in fine sunny weather stopping for lunch at the Ettamogh Pub at Cunderdin , seeing the pub we thought we were suddenly transposed to QLD. Baz enjoyed a nice Fathers Day Lunch before continuing further along the Great Southern Hwy towards Kalgoolie stopping for the night at the Boorabin Rest Area.

Boy's College New Norcia

Chapel girls college

Chapel boy's college

Abbey Church

Moser Organ Abbey Church

Monastery New Norcia

Pub at Cunderdin